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This time of year isn't great for local Seasonal produce. To grow anything as you know is so weather dependent, and we all know what the weather has been like, farming must be so difficult in these conditions. However there is a ray of light (or darkness) that comes from a handful of dark sheds in Yorkshire known as the 'Rhubarb Triangle'- the triangle being - Rothwell, Morley and Wakefield.
These sheds are famously candlelight and are growing forced rhubarb with thrives in the dark and loves soot and ash soil of this area. Apparently you can hear the rhubarb creaking as it grow!! This Triangle used to provide 90% of the Worlds forced rhubarb!! This rhubarb precedes the outdoor season and is much more tender, sweeter and has an amazing pinky colour. I have started to 'sous vide' the rhubarb in vacuum bags and cook at low temperatures so I capture all the flavours, though I pretty sure most people can't do this at home. I suggest you cut the sticks of rhubarb into 3cm pieces and roll in Fructose sugar ( a natural fruit based sugar, available in most good supermarkets) then bake for 20mins at 120C- leave to cool and keep all the juices- goes great simply with warm custard or if you feel adventurous serve with grilled mackerel- its a brilliant combination.
Here is what this year's Good Food Guide has had to say about us.
A high roller right in York’s gastro – epicentre, Jeff Baker’s self – styled ‘bistro moderne’ is pitched squarely as a populist venue for our times. Rather than desperately seeking accolades, it aims to deliver good food for all at prices that won’t crash the system. The ground floor restaurant lives and breathes laid – back cosmopolitan style, with subdued colours, a few pictures and flower arrangements providing the backdrop, while upstairs is a seductive chocolate room dedicated to toothsome delights.
At lunchtime, a flexible grazing menu rules; order and eat at your own pace from a snappy assortment of little dishes including snail and chestnut ‘ragoo’ or black pudding pasties with hazelnut pease pudding. Evening meals raise the bar with forthright, fancy – free offerings such as crunchy lamb belly with smoked eel, eggplant and pimento or slow – cooked pork cheeks with Thai ketchup, seared squid and buttered noodles.
Jeff Baker may be serious about food, but he has a sense of fun and isn’t averse to playing a few mischievous tricks on the taste buds. A starter dubbed ‘pot of tea and bacon buttie’ involves pheasant. Pancetta and prunes, roast Yorkshire mallard is served with ‘leftover Xmas pudding’ and desserts include the deliciously tongue – in – cheek peanut butter and jelly sandwich with sarsaparilla. House wines from £13.95 head the praiseworthy, price – conscious list.
Our Bistro Moderne brings you a whole new dining experience. One which is ‘less exclusive and more inclusive’.
A contemporary modern bistro with a cosy, informal atmosphere in the centre of historic York.
The food is simple but bold, familiar yet new. Relax in the daytime as you casually pick and choose creations from our Grazing Menu. You set the tempo, long and lasting or fast and snappy.
In the evening, intimate or social, our fixed price à la carte menu has everything to offer. Every dish we serve brings you the very best produce from the greatest Yorkshire suppliers.
Our why not Graze By Night, en experience designed to enable the customer to experience a 7 course meal, with many different
tastes and textures. It means that the diner is not restricted to choosing 2 or 3 courses and can enjoy tasting a few more things off the menu which the chef will select and serve on the evening.
We look forward to welcoming you to J Baker’s Bistro Moderne for a true taste of Yorkshire.
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