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I hope you have made a few New Years resolutions, I find its sticking to them the most difficult thing, especially the annual 'I am going to drink less!!'
I would like to tell you about a most inspirational meal I had recently on the roof of Selfridges, at Pierre Koffmann's one off Pop Up restaurant. His menu was filled with some of his classic dishes from his famed 3 Michelin starred restaurant that was 'Tante Claire' in Chelsea. I worked for him over 20 years ago and he has had a massive influence on the way I cook, so it was fabulous news that he had returned to the kitchen, even if it was for just a few weeks.
His top selling dish at Selfridges was Pigs Trotters, he was serving nearly 100 portions a day!! But it was his second most popular dish that I chose as my main dish ' Hare Royale' its one of my favourites and It took me back to those long days in the Tante Claire kitchen all them years ago. The flavours he gets from this dish are massive, the legs are braised in red wine and smoked bacon and the saddle cooked rare, then a Game force meat is stuffed with Fois Gras (which gives the dish the Royale title) all served with egg pasta and glazed carrots- amazing.
This inspired a Yorkshire version that's on our menu when Hare is available 'Yorkshire Hare with chesnut bread pudding and chocolate'- again the Hare is braised and the bread pudding is like a bread sauce with chesnuts and set with egg in a bain marie, all served with the hare juices finished with chocolate and a classic touch- raspberry vinegar.
I like the way the Chestnuts help this dish become rounded. I enjoy working with Chestnuts at this time of year as they always seem to give a Winter touch to a menu. Apparently they originate from China but now the European varieties are more favoured for there sweetness and flavour. If British aren't available I try to get French or Italian . They were a staple of the Europeam diet well before potatoes and wheat took over our diet. The Italians make great cakes with Chestnut flour, but I am not a fan of some of the heavy breads it makes. I just add them to soups and sauces for richness and the sweetness they give.
Well happy cooking and I hope you have a great 2010!
Here is what this year's Good Food Guide has had to say about us.
A high roller right in York’s gastro – epicentre, Jeff Baker’s self – styled ‘bistro moderne’ is pitched squarely as a populist venue for our times. Rather than desperately seeking accolades, it aims to deliver good food for all at prices that won’t crash the system. The ground floor restaurant lives and breathes laid – back cosmopolitan style, with subdued colours, a few pictures and flower arrangements providing the backdrop, while upstairs is a seductive chocolate room dedicated to toothsome delights.
At lunchtime, a flexible grazing menu rules; order and eat at your own pace from a snappy assortment of little dishes including snail and chestnut ‘ragoo’ or black pudding pasties with hazelnut pease pudding. Evening meals raise the bar with forthright, fancy – free offerings such as crunchy lamb belly with smoked eel, eggplant and pimento or slow – cooked pork cheeks with Thai ketchup, seared squid and buttered noodles.
Jeff Baker may be serious about food, but he has a sense of fun and isn’t averse to playing a few mischievous tricks on the taste buds. A starter dubbed ‘pot of tea and bacon buttie’ involves pheasant. Pancetta and prunes, roast Yorkshire mallard is served with ‘leftover Xmas pudding’ and desserts include the deliciously tongue – in – cheek peanut butter and jelly sandwich with sarsaparilla. House wines from £13.95 head the praiseworthy, price – conscious list.
Our Bistro Moderne brings you a whole new dining experience. One which is ‘less exclusive and more inclusive’.
A contemporary modern bistro with a cosy, informal atmosphere in the centre of historic York.
The food is simple but bold, familiar yet new. Relax in the daytime as you casually pick and choose creations from our Grazing Menu. You set the tempo, long and lasting or fast and snappy.
In the evening, intimate or social, our fixed price à la carte menu has everything to offer. Every dish we serve brings you the very best produce from the greatest Yorkshire suppliers.
Our why not Graze By Night, en experience designed to enable the customer to experience a 7 course meal, with many different
tastes and textures. It means that the diner is not restricted to choosing 2 or 3 courses and can enjoy tasting a few more things off the menu which the chef will select and serve on the evening.
We look forward to welcoming you to J Baker’s Bistro Moderne for a true taste of Yorkshire.
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